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The village of
Fionnphort which means 'Port of the White Sands'
in Gaelic and
is pronounced something like 'fin-ny-firt' is on the south west peninsula
of Mull, known as the Ross of Mull. ('Ross' is the Scottish word
for peninsula). Fionnphort takes its name from the splendid, white, sandy bay which is overlooked by Seaview
providing a wonderful foreground to the Isle of Iona and its
many stunning sunsets. Many of our guests comment on the views
we have from Seaview and they often tell us that by staying with
us they have the best of both worlds – not least our very
welcoming hospitality but also the amazing views they have of
the Sound of Iona and the Abbey, whilst enjoying breakfast and
dinner. We agree with them – as inviting as Iona is, the view
from Iona back across the water to Fionnphort isn’t quite the same!
Fionnphort
today
Fionnphort is
a small thriving community and is more than just a passing
through point for the ferry across to Iona and the boat trips
out to the Treshnish Isles – it is also the home and workplace
to approximately 100 people. With only 45 homes in the village,
Fionnphort and her residents support an astonishing number of
visitors from around the world who travel through Glen More from Craignure to the Ross of Mull, whatever the weather, 365 days a
year. The land and coastal waters around the Ross of Mull,
(including other out lying villages and communities) supports the
traditional farming, crofting, fishing and forestry industries
as well as the important industries of tourism, hospitality, service
and retail which are so vital to the local economy. Further information about the
fishing industry.
21st
century Fionnphort
For such a
tiny hamlet, Fionnphort is pretty cosmopolitan in its own unique
and hardy way. Visitors staying at Seaview come from around the
world and despite its island location, our guests have always
been delighted at the diverse range of services we personally
offer along with the facilities and services offered in and
around the village. Fionnphort isn’t chic, trendy or fashionable
in a ‘slick city’ kind of way but it has a certain
charm and heaps more to offer
than one might expect. Long term plans for this small, vibrant
and bustling Hebridean community include a
harbour
as well as forming the epicentre of the UK’s first National
Marine Park.
One
well known
tourist information guide published a rather short sighted
comment that Fionnphort was ‘merely for passing through……after
all what was there to stop for?’ Had the writer stopped to find
out, he or she would have discovered for themselves!
Recent guests
of ours commented that the tourist information book referred to
above, that she was reading had got it all wrong – and that in
fact Fionnphort was a gem of a place and well worth stopping
for; not just to observe a real Hebridean community at work and
at play but a rare opportunity to join in with the island life
and sample the warm and friendly hospitality on offer and a
unique and memorable experience to take home with them. One
can’t receive a better accolade than that.
Fionnphort
Community Life

Our local
grocery store The Ferry Shop & Post Office is owned and run by
Alan & Rhona Lindsay who along with their staff sells an amazing array of
goods from fresh produce and dried goods right through to fresh bread every
morning. A supermarket it isn’t but it offers a diverse range of
food items including freshly baked bread & croissants, takeaway
coffee, delicatessen products, local cheeses, fresh fish, local
meat products and fresh fruit, salad and vegetables. All
this, as well as the local post office,
newsagent, art, craft & gift shop showcasing local crafts
and art work plus an ATM machine in the
front foyer. With an impressive range of
local history books on offer as well, plus internet,
email and fax facilities and a hardware store at the back, there isn’t much that can’t be bought
here. Alan and Rhona are also very obliging at ordering stock in
for you. Tel: (01681) 700470

The Keel Row
Pub & Restaurant is a traditional Hebridean crofters cottage
which has been converted into a pub and is owned and run by
Marilyn & Brendan along with their staff. The Keel Row offers a warm and inviting welcome to
everyone and is family friendly offering a wide and comprehensive menu
catering for most tastes and budgets. The pub is open at lunch
time for soups and sandwiches and serves evening meals from 6 pm
in the restaurant. Reservations cannot be made as a 'first
come-first served' system is operated. Food is
plentiful and outdoor seating offers the opportunity to watch
some spectacular sunsets whilst enjoying a wee dram or two;
alternatively a wood burning stove sits tucked away in the
fireplace in the pub giving off a cosy heat for those chillier
evenings and days. Tel: (01681) 700458
HM Coastguard provides an important role in the
community – the building can be found on the left on the way
down to the pier. Coastguard callouts for search & rescue teams
and medivac operations are all facilitated by local residents who
volunteer their services even though they are busy with their
businesses and work. The team at Fionnphort are called out several times
a year to assist in a number of emergency callouts in all
weather and at all times.
The RNLI are
equally important and is a charity well supported by the village
through fund raising events and a very popular book stall
located in the garage of Trevor, one of the local posties. (You
can find it on the right on your way from the back car park).
Other
facilities in the village include the Calmac ticket
office for the ferry across to Iona, and the ferry terminal with
a tea room with public toilet
facilities.
Wild
Fionnphort
Along with the
many white sandy beaches, coves and bays offering visitors hours
of beachcombing and discovery, the surrounding area has bird
life galore, flora and fauna, walks for the uninitiated and the
more experienced, and stunning views and scenery waiting to
capture your heart and hopefully some amazing photographs too.
The folks back home just won’t believe the beauty of the place.
Marine life is
also abundant – Sammy the seal can often be seen in
the bay especially when the fishing boats are in and landing
their catch of lobsters, crabs and fish. Hand fed by the
fisherman, Sammy sometimes appears with another
seal but we don’t know if he’s a pal or a girlfriend. We are
still waiting for a baby Sammy.
Dolphins,
porpoise and basking sharks have all been seen in the waters
around Fionnphort swimming up and down the Sound of Iona; line
fishing for crab and mackerel are enjoyed by youngsters (old and
young) on the pier – freshly caught mackerel BBQ’d is something
else.
Here at
Seaview we work on ‘Mull’ time – the pace of life is a lot
slower and much more relaxed. When we are asked what time it is
– we often say with tongue in cheek ‘light o’clock’, ‘dark
o’clock’, ‘eat o’clock’ or ‘sleep o’clock’– time isn’t really
that important to us and we try to enjoy each moment each day.
If we are asked what day it is, we say “We don’t know but it
ends in the letter ‘y’”. We aren’t being cheeky when we say
this, we just believe that there are other choices to how one
can live their life and we choose to
prioritise
‘differently’ to some other folk. It may sound quirky but it
suits us and our guests appreciate our approach as it helps them
to relax, unwind and enjoy their time on the island – and very
often when checking out, guests discover they have ‘lost’ a day
or two!
Fionnphort
Granite
Fionnphort is
the home of the world famous Red Granite. From this robust and
decorative material many important civil engineering works were
constructed and across the Sound of Iona is a lasting monument
and tribute to this material…………..Iona Abbey.
Half a mile
north across the moor land heather is the
Tor Mor Quarry which once produced the unique red granite
building blocks. Our home, Seaview is constructed of this
granite and the superb workmanship of past local stonemasons can
be seen on the front face of the house. The stone was popular
because it was free of flaws and grain and would take intricate
carving as well as a good polish – an excellent example of this
can be found on the Seaview nameplate on the pillar at the front
gate.
Other more
auspicious building works that have used Fionnphort Granite
include Blackfriars Bridge, Holburn Viaduct and the Albert
Memorial in London, along with buildings in New York and
Liverpool docks, Manchester City Hall and many others.
Near to the
quarry on the Mull side of the Sound of Iona is the small island
of Eilean nam Ban or ‘Island of the Women’. Legend has it
that when St. Columba founded Iona he banished the women to this
island – little did he realize what good swimmers the men were!
KINTRA
A tiny picturesque village situated
round a small enclosed bay on the north west tip of the Ross of Mull.
Founded by the 5th Duke of Argyll who tried to provide an
income for himself and his tenants through fishing. 12 crofts were
inhabited but the distance from mainland markets led to the scheme’s
downfall.
However, the nearby granite quarries
of Tormor and Dearghport provided some employment for the village
people. When the quarries closed, some families emigrated and some were
evicted. The village became depopulated until, in the 1920’s, there were
only two people left. The village is now coming back to life albeit half
of the houses are now holiday homes, with 4 or 5 families living and
working full time in the area.
OS Grid reference: 315 254
1:25,000 OS Explorer Series.
MAP OS EXPLORER 375 WEST MULL
About one and a half miles outside
Fionnphort from the main Fionnphort-Bunessan road. A849 turn north at
the sign for Kintra and follow the road to the end, here lies Kintra. |